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Shop New / Custom dressing table style (illustrative)
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Table tops fail in the same three places every time: the edge, the underside, and the extension. For stone, hold the line at 2 cm minimum thickness with a mitred or beveled edge — a thin slab with a square polished edge chips on the first knock from a vacuum cleaner. The underside needs sealing too, because water rings from cups and planters travel through stone and show on the surface weeks later. For wood, 30 mm solid or a thick veneer with properly sealed edges holds up; thin board with taped edges swells at the first spill. Glass must be 10–12 mm tempered with a polished edge, never a raw cut.
If the table extends, ask what runs inside it. Steel full-length runners keep the two halves aligned under load; plastic sliders drop and bind within a year of restaurant service. See how the options differ on real builds in black marble dining tables and custom modern dining tables.
Standard dining height is 75 cm; anything else must match a chair you have already chosen. Allow 60 cm of table width per diner, and keep 90 cm of clear space behind each chair so people can walk past while others are seated. For round tables, check the base footprint — a pedestal that spreads wider than the chair zone stops guests from pulling their chairs in. Lock these numbers in the order sheet before production, and map the full room from everything we make.
Can I order a dining table to a non-standard size? Yes. Give the room dimensions and the number of seats; we confirm the top size, base footprint and chair clearances in writing before production starts.
Which top material is best for a restaurant? Sealed stone or high-pressure laminate over board, both with mitred or sealed edges. Both shrug off heat, water and cleaning chemicals; solid wood shows rings and scratches sooner in service.
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